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Charcuterie's First Couple PDF Print E-mail
October/November 2008 - Issue #14



The Fatted Calf Charcuterie store, in the new Oxbow Public Market a stone’s throw from downtown Napa, is bright and airy. In the glass-fronted display case are cured meats and salumi—prosciutto, soppressata, and mortadella, among many others. There are pork chops, hams, duck confit, crocks of rillettes and pâté, and salads of beans and vegetables. It’s a far cry from the farmers market stalls that Taylor Boetticher and Toponia Miller, cofounders and spouses, have been running for the past five years.

Charcuterie is the French word for cured meats, a process that evolved as a way to preserve meat before refrigeration. “It’s a dying trade,” Boetticher says. “Not too many people know how to do this.” Charcuterie had been part of the curriculum at the Culinary Institute of America, where the pair met as students, but only as a 10-day course. “It was a bunch of jellied things laid out on mirrors,” recalls Boetticher. “It didn’t look like something you would want to eat.”

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